tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6172173779403995487.post2154140498905599006..comments2023-08-07T10:02:38.306-04:00Comments on Nothing Special: How to Shoot a FujiFilm EXR Camera – HS50EXR, F900EXR, F800EXR, XF1, X-S1, X10, Z1000EXR, HS30EXR, F750EXR, F770EXR, F660EXR, Z900EXR, F600EXR, F605EXR, HS20EXR, HS25EXR, Z800EXR, F550EXR, F505EXR, F500EXR, F300EXR, F80EXR, Z700EXR, F70EXR, S200EXR, F200EXR – *updated November 2014*Kim Letkemanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09385760559949803522noreply@blogger.comBlogger141125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6172173779403995487.post-49921510912486592982010-10-22T05:51:53.456-04:002010-10-22T05:51:53.456-04:00Thanks for the once over. Still a bit surprised at...Thanks for the once over. Still a bit surprised at the sameness of all the shadow areas regardless of the DR setting, or even whether EXR is in use. EXR's enhanced shadow rendition has been pushed as the camera's USP, and its effect was quite noticeable in most reviews.<br /><br />Do you have a suggestion for an Image Shack alternative? I've never used it before and picked it out at random.<br /><br />All the best.<br /><br />Greg.<br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br /><br />Greg.Greghttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12106448379661134200noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6172173779403995487.post-79492531036080149652010-10-19T08:46:32.955-04:002010-10-19T08:46:32.955-04:00Greg - Sorry, I got distracted when I first got it...Greg - Sorry, I got distracted when I first got it. I don't like Image Shack and you mentioned I should not feel obligated to look and so on. So I forgot. I just looked them over and yes, the images have identical shadows and midtones with the primary difference being their highlights. DR100 blows things sky high and DR400 and DR800 save the highlights very nicely. Interestingly, I suspect that the effect we think of when we say that shadows and highlights are flattened comes from the fact that even with -1/3ev or -2/3ev we still get blown highlights at DR100 and we get blocked shadows. But at DR400 and DR800 we can shoot with less -ev and save the highlights while leaving the shadows open.Kim Letkemanhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09385760559949803522noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6172173779403995487.post-83629169167915252382010-10-19T06:03:20.061-04:002010-10-19T06:03:20.061-04:00Kim, did you get the email I (Alan (Dick) - apolo...Kim, did you get the email I (Alan (Dick) - apologies for any confusion with names) sent on Oct 6 with some files illustrating the lack of differentiation I appeared to be experiencing with my EXR settings? <br /> <br />I included some of the different settings on the P mode that you suggested and which, to me, looked practically identical.Greghttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12106448379661134200noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6172173779403995487.post-76893546632416953412010-10-04T08:58:31.684-04:002010-10-04T08:58:31.684-04:00Andrei,
As far as I can tell, 16:9 mode is a crop...Andrei,<br /><br />As far as I can tell, 16:9 mode is a crop of 4:3 mode, so image quality is identical.<br /><br />Indoor imagery is by far the most difficult. Churches are very dark for example. Not to our eyes of course, but to a sensor. So if you cannot get decent images at 1600 ISO in P mode, then there is really not enough light. <br /><br />Now, if you are not shooting people, then what you want to do is find a place to set the camera down, set the camera to 100 or 200 ISO an M mode and then make sure that you dial the shutter speed setting down until the meter shows a middle reading. Use the self timer on 2 seconds to release and do not touch the camera while shooting. That's no good for people, but will get you lovely indoor images. You can compromise by setting to 800 ISO and bracing your arms on something like a pew. This takes practice, but it can be done.<br /><br />Flash is good for short range portraits, but is not useful for lighting up large areas.Kim Letkemanhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09385760559949803522noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6172173779403995487.post-87569548901340563012010-10-04T08:33:01.200-04:002010-10-04T08:33:01.200-04:00Hi,
Your posts were very helpful to me end I wish...Hi,<br /><br />Your posts were very helpful to me end I wish to thank you for them. Very nice work!<br />I olso have a few questions if you don't mind. First I have to admit that I'm just an amateur and have a lot of experimenting to do. :) <br /><br />1. I like to shoot my F70EXR in 16:9 M mode. Can this mode affect picture quality with your recommendetions?<br /><br />2. I can't get good indoor pictures. <br />I tried to shoot some pictures in a church, for a wedding, mainly groups of people. <br />P mode had no chance,a lot of noise and manual was to dark with black backgrounds, just in flash range. <br />The same problems in a restaurant, with no natural light. Very noisy pictures, in all modes...<br />Can you recommend some settings for those situations?<br /><br />Best regards,<br />AndreiUnknownhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/06218131282360713250noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6172173779403995487.post-72784276223072885272010-09-27T09:20:59.434-04:002010-09-27T09:20:59.434-04:00Dick, when you say "EXR settings", do yo...Dick, when you say "EXR settings", do you mean that you set the dial to EXR? In which case do you change the EXR DR amount from 100 to 400? Or to you shoot EXR AUTO? The reason I ask is that EXR AUTO mode makes a lot of decisions differently from how I would shoot a camera, and so might be leaving the cam at DR100 in which case you will see little difference between other modes and that. It all depends on the subject. If you shoot P mode settings as I recommend, and then switch from DR100 to DR400, you should see a definite difference in tone curve.Kim Letkemanhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09385760559949803522noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6172173779403995487.post-81547569932976787782010-09-27T06:32:23.839-04:002010-09-27T06:32:23.839-04:00Kim
Apologies for not getting back to you as sugg...Kim<br /><br />Apologies for not getting back to you as suggested but my Mac is poorly and I can't access any of my files or backups until it has had some (expensive, as usual) TLC. As is fairly common here in the UK, there isn't currently enough sunlight to take some more comparative shots with a decent dynamic range.<br /><br />Prior to computer shutdown I did manage to carry out a thorough review of all my recent images. It was very clear that EXR settings did not produce any visible change in the dynamic range of sequential images - all shadowed areas looked absolutely identical regardless of whether EXR was selected or not.<br /><br />Unless I have misunderstood the situation, all reviews that I have seen tend to show quite significant changes whenever EXR settings are demonstrated. I therefore think it would perhaps be prudent to return my camera to check that all is well with it.<br /> <br />Thanks for your offer of help and for the helpful hints on your blog.Greghttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12106448379661134200noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6172173779403995487.post-37196716884609061242010-09-23T20:58:21.320-04:002010-09-23T20:58:21.320-04:00Thanks Lev!Thanks Lev!Kim Letkemanhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09385760559949803522noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6172173779403995487.post-74509315296731096832010-09-23T19:39:08.033-04:002010-09-23T19:39:08.033-04:00Great job, Kim! Each "fujiman" must read...Great job, Kim! Each "fujiman" must read it. Very useful, very interesting? very helpful. I personaly enjoied it. Thanks a lot<br />LevV.Ilgrafhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/13615516798223036085noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6172173779403995487.post-74022657167355526002010-09-22T08:37:59.892-04:002010-09-22T08:37:59.892-04:00Alan, can you post links to a couple of files? Or ...Alan, can you post links to a couple of files? Or perhaps email them to me? I need to see the files to determine what is happening. It may be that the Ricoh has a tone curve that is more favorable to shadows.Kim Letkemanhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09385760559949803522noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6172173779403995487.post-45901751825656547922010-09-22T05:55:56.617-04:002010-09-22T05:55:56.617-04:00Kim, having read your exceptionally thorough break...Kim, having read your exceptionally thorough breakdown of the F70, I was confident that this was the best travel zoom to replace my Ricoh R7 (this is a similar, flyweight 28-200 8mp zoom which was favourably reviewed when it came out around three years ago).<br /><br />After setting up the Fuji according to your helpful recommendations, I took a number of comparison shots at equivalent settings. I was surprised to find that the R7's images were, on the whole, marginally superior. More significantly, the little Ricoh rendered shadow areas with far more detail than the F70 - very surprising given that this aspect is supposed to be one of the Fuji's great strengths.<br /><br />I took a further series of fixed shots with the Fuji. Viewed on the computer screen with no processing, the overall results were more or less identical. There was no appreciable difference in shadow rendition between EXR, non EXR, Auto, 100% DR or 800% DR, and all points in between. <br /><br />None of this makes my F70 a bad camera but, having read very favourable testimonies of it here and on DP, I was expecting rather more of it.<br />Based on the lack of shadow rendition and the lack of differentiation between various settings, do you think it possible that my particular camera is simply not performing properly? <br /><br />Thanks<br /><br />Alan.Greghttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12106448379661134200noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6172173779403995487.post-46070107991604518612010-09-19T23:39:08.155-04:002010-09-19T23:39:08.155-04:00nuraman00: 1A is a tad dark and 1B is a tad blurre...nuraman00: 1A is a tad dark and 1B is a tad blurred. 1A could have been a touch brighter by boosting ISO to 800 and leaving shutter where it is. 1B less blurred by boosting ISO to 800 and shooting at 1/150s. 1C seems the same as 1B.<br /><br />2A is completely blown out. In sunlight, you can take it off manual and go with P mode since you will always get enough light for a fast shutter. Perhaps -2/3ev there. 2B is on auto but could use some -ev compensation. Nice though. 2C is a wicked shot. I'd have shot it twice ... one at 400ISO and one at 800 ISO ... then pick the nicest exposure. 2D ... awesome shot, but too much light. You need to use faster shutter .... 1/64 is risking movement anyway. 1/125s for that shot at least ...<br /><br />3a, nice shot! Again, 1/64s is risky. Don't be afraid to underexpose slightly then pull exposure up in post process. Helps protect highlights. 3b, another great looking shot. Just a bit too much shake. Definitely lean towards 1/125s as your minimum at full zoom. 800ISO is very nice on the F70 so don't be afraid of it ...<br /><br />Nice stuff in here. More practice will help to nail images without the shake. And every concert is a new challenge. I love it and it is frustrating, but great fun when you nail a shot here and there.Kim Letkemanhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09385760559949803522noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6172173779403995487.post-39729581896472635682010-09-19T23:04:58.194-04:002010-09-19T23:04:58.194-04:00Hi Kim,
Here are results from 3 more concerts:
1...Hi Kim,<br /><br />Here are results from 3 more concerts:<br /><br />1A: http://tinypic.com/r/f4qyav/7<br /><br />1B: http://tinypic.com/r/2e5uyw1/7<br /><br />1C: http://tinypic.com/r/34fmcdi/7<br /><br />2A: http://tinypic.com/r/qq8y89/7<br /><br />2B: http://tinypic.com/r/28mmnft/7<br /><br />2C: http://tinypic.com/r/2dtyy2s/7<br /><br />2D: http://tinypic.com/r/28hlfsm/7<br /><br />3A: http://tinypic.com/r/ilbsll/7<br /><br />3B: http://tinypic.com/r/2vxoiyt/7<br /><br /><br />Comments and suggestions?<br /><br />For 2A and 2B, I found that using EXR D-range sunlight mode worked better for 2B than using Manual mode for 2A.<br /><br />Overall I was happy with the shots. I'm also happy that I haven't seem to have needed much an adjustment period, trying to get the best shots. It's been pretty easy, thanks to your tips on your blog. It's been a relief, knowing I made the right purchase.Anonymousnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6172173779403995487.post-59557879034499237052010-09-10T10:25:00.692-04:002010-09-10T10:25:00.692-04:00koopa: since you are doing your own tests, I won;t...koopa: since you are doing your own tests, I won;t bother suggesting it :-) ... what I have found is that many people see things differently from me. Meaning that they focus on other aspects of an image as important. Even 100% crops are rarely unequivocal. So you really need to shoot the kind of scene that matters to you from a tripod with IS off and see how you like the three levels of DR for detail retention.Kim Letkemanhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09385760559949803522noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6172173779403995487.post-3770032224810899162010-09-08T23:21:09.424-04:002010-09-08T23:21:09.424-04:00Hi Kim, long time follower of you on dpreview, and...Hi Kim, long time follower of you on dpreview, and owner of an f31fd and an f200exr.<br /><br />I agree with you about always using the f200 in 6mp mode, and tend to have it always in EXR-DR800 mode when outside and P-DR400 when inside/low light. I have been intrigued by your comment that leaving the camera in DR800 can be dangerous, and plan to change my shooting habits accordingly.<br /><br />The camera has been excellent, and I have printed many A2 size posters that have been of astounding quality for a P&S (I also have a 5D MkII to compare prints).<br /><br />My question to you is this:<br /><br />I have been frustrated by smeared backgrounds/trees/grass/water/hair:basically low contrast fine details. On very large prints, they are the things that far an away ruin the prints.<br /><br />If I want the best possible fine details, how important is it to set my camera in:<br /><br /> - ISO 100<br /><br /> - DR 100/200/400/800 (how much do these settings muddy fine details? Can I safely leave my cam in ISO100/DR400 and still have the best fine details, or do I need to reduce it to ISO100/DR100?)<br /><br /> - HR/DR/SN modes. I know HR mode has too much per-pixel strangeness that causes the noise reduction to kick in overtime, but, perhaps not if shot at 6MP (as strange as that would be for 'HR'). <br /><br />Hear me out:<br /><br />When set to 6MP and ISO100, which setting is best for low contrast fine details, HR, DR or SN? Importantly, is there any point to ever setting SN, or does Pmode 6MP DR400 do SN through binning at the same time anyway? I now know to save DR800 for when the shot absolutely needs it, but is there a difference between DR100/200/400 in the shadow details?<br /><br />I am of course doing my own tests (and for the record, I scored a perfect 0 in that colour hue test you linked to!), but I would be fascinated by your opinion, especially when you receive your f300.<br /><br />Cheers!<br /><br />PS: Now I'm off to practice my ETTR techniques, thanks for the tip :)Koopahttps://www.blogger.com/profile/02829283772714934234noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6172173779403995487.post-86690580678015271722010-09-06T08:35:00.219-04:002010-09-06T08:35:00.219-04:00Thanks wildan.Thanks wildan.Kim Letkemanhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09385760559949803522noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6172173779403995487.post-60647437297932784252010-09-06T08:05:21.079-04:002010-09-06T08:05:21.079-04:00Very helpfull and nice share kim. Keep the goodwor...Very helpfull and nice share kim. Keep the goodwork.idanismehttps://www.blogger.com/profile/04608479633703062465noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6172173779403995487.post-598729631993269342010-09-01T11:11:03.351-04:002010-09-01T11:11:03.351-04:00laker: Part 2 of my comment would be that you will...laker: Part 2 of my comment would be that you will see nasty artifacts in any camera at 400 ISO and up in really poor light (far from daylight temperature and very low) ... but the shot cannot be had without jumping to a dSLR. So again I would suggest flash as the solution. Now, if the light is a bit better, say, daylight coming in from a window, you should be able to shoot at up to 1600 with reasonable success. I certainly have a lot of 1600 ISO images that I like from the F70.Kim Letkemanhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09385760559949803522noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6172173779403995487.post-2314943192454911872010-09-01T11:08:10.382-04:002010-09-01T11:08:10.382-04:00laker: I just got back from a vacation in my home ...laker: I just got back from a vacation in my home town and I was shooting a lot of images of my gorgeous grand niece inside and outside in late evening. The light in the house was horrid ... very low orange light or ugly fluorescent. To shoot with the F80, one absolutely must shoot with flash in this environment. And to be honest, the images almost have to be in black and white because of the mixed light between flash and incandescent or fluorescent. I ended up shooting the D700 and still had to resort to flash a lot of the time. There, I was able to set up a remote flash to light the room and use the built in to light the subject. I'll be blogging some of this fairly soon. I have concluded that small cameras indoors must have a fair amount of light to get good shots of people. And even then, they cannot retain a ton of detail unless supported by flash. This is a reality that drives people towards dSLRs for that kind of shooting.Kim Letkemanhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09385760559949803522noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6172173779403995487.post-20687617528415527972010-08-31T03:15:45.251-04:002010-08-31T03:15:45.251-04:00Hi Kim, this is kind of a follow up to the posting...Hi Kim, this is kind of a follow up to the posting by shazahmad. I have had the F200exr for a while now & have the same problem he does. Unfortunately I seem to have bought the wrong camera for my needs but can't get a new one for a while longer. So I was hoping you could recommend the best settings to use for pics like his, portrait shots of kids at home, usually lit by light bulbs.<br /><br />Mine are a little older so I have them pose & stand still as possible but they are usually blurry at lower ISOs 100-200 or have the same noise/artifacts at 400 & up, which is still noticable even in 4X6 pics. I've also noticed that darker skin results in more noise/artifacts. Is there anything I can do to make my pictures sharper & brighter but with less noise/artifacts? Thanks alot!lakerhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/11700931356666460046noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6172173779403995487.post-19012852811270081692010-08-19T08:26:12.023-04:002010-08-19T08:26:12.023-04:00Kim, thanks for the quick response ..
I obviously ...Kim, thanks for the quick response ..<br />I obviously need to look carefully you blog.<br />But this would take quite some time because I do not understand English well :(<br />Thanks again!Unknownhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10989762957400960114noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6172173779403995487.post-79354044488885935642010-08-19T06:07:57.475-04:002010-08-19T06:07:57.475-04:00Gonzaki: You need to read both posts (this one and...Gonzaki: You need to read both posts (this one and part 1 of my learning the F70EXR) to see why L mode sucks on the EXR cams. There are a number of other posts along the way that discuss that as well. Search my blog for L vs M. The bottom line is at 10mp (or worse, at 12mp on the F80) the sensor has a lot more noise reduction that really hurts fine low contrast detail (in shadows is especially bad.) To retain best detail, shoot EXR at half resolution and allow it to bin the pixels (larger photosites.)Kim Letkemanhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09385760559949803522noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6172173779403995487.post-75729558942361778312010-08-19T01:38:46.650-04:002010-08-19T01:38:46.650-04:00Hi Kim,
About F70EXR:
Why do you always recommend ...Hi Kim,<br />About F70EXR:<br />Why do you always recommend us to use M-Size (5 Mpx) instead of L-Size (10 Mpx)?<br />Is this the best use of the matrix?Unknownhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/10989762957400960114noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6172173779403995487.post-34078961331118129522010-08-15T11:28:31.338-04:002010-08-15T11:28:31.338-04:00Tim, I try to preserve maximum tones in all situat...Tim, I try to preserve maximum tones in all situations. That means DR400. Others may prefer to have a little stronger tone curves out of camera so that there is less to do in post processing. But some prefer the more open look of DR400 anyway. This is something only you can decide by testing the two modes in typical light. Note, though, that I found that DR AUTO often made bad decisions and used too little DR, blowing highlights unnecessarily.Kim Letkemanhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09385760559949803522noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6172173779403995487.post-54058067333132200892010-08-15T10:29:31.544-04:002010-08-15T10:29:31.544-04:00Kim,
I am a new owner of F80EXR. Thank you very ...Kim,<br /><br />I am a new owner of F80EXR. Thank you very much for giving very informative insights and hints. Can you explain why you set DR400 instead of using Auto DR selection? Is Auto DR better indoors?Unknownhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01541557536874005353noreply@blogger.com